$129.99$99.9916 days left at this price

Route 01 · momiji season

Tokyo → Hiroshima,
and back.

The route drawn on a map of Japan: Tokyo, Osaka, Nara, Kyoto, Himeji, Okayama, Hiroshima, Hakone, Fuji, and back to Tokyo
21
days planned
38
chapters
650+
pages
620+
places pinned

The saved folder problem

I have seen the same reels as you.

I went to them, on my own mornings and my own money. A few are worth yours, and most are worth a photograph from the street and a train somewhere better.

Learn from my mistakes
Three phone screens fanned out, showing stories and reels saved from Japan: a train carriage, a street at sunset, and a tea house courtyard

Where the $1,000 comes from.

Five things the guide decides for you, and what each one is worth.

  • I tell you what to skip


    Every day names what to leave out, and why it is not worth it.

    Roughly $60 saved.

  • The wrong rail pass


    ¥100,000 nationwide, against the ¥17,000 one that fits this route.

    Roughly $510 saved.

  • Which district to sleep in


    Which neighbourhood in each city, and which hotel, by name.

    Roughly $430 saved.

  • Planned to the hour


    Every stop linked straight to Maps, breakfast to the last train.

  • Take it apart if you like


    Move the days about. One swap is built in for a bad forecast.

And this is what arrives.

  • All 21 days, in order

    One chapter per day, timetabled from breakfast to the last train.

  • Nine chapters before you fly

    Which rail pass, what to book, what it costs, what to do when it goes wrong.

  • 620+ places, already pinned

    Every one opens your Maps app on the spot. No typing Japanese at a junction.

  • My honest opinion

    What to skip, and which famous thing I would not queue for again.

  • A cheap option beside every splurge

    Both prices, every time, so the trip fits your budget and not mine.

  • Online, or the PDF

    650+ pages on your phone. Yours forever, updates free.

Ten stops, in order.

21 days, and what each one of them looks like.

  • A red Tokyo Metro train crossing the river at Ochanomizu, towers behind it

    Days 1 to 3

    Tokyo

    Land, sleep it off, then Asakusa, Akihabara and teamLab in the right order.

    Days 1 to 3

    Tokyo

    Land, sleep it off, then Asakusa, Akihabara and teamLab in the right order.

  • The Glico running man sign lit up over Dotonbori at night

    Days 4 and 5

    Osaka

    The city that eats. A temple, a forest trail and a waterfall on day two.

    Days 4 and 5

    Osaka

    The city that eats. A temple, a forest trail and a waterfall on day two.

  • A young deer resting on gravel in Nara Park

    Day 6

    Nara

    A day trip from either city, and yes, the deer bow back.

    Day 6

    Nara

    A day trip from either city, and yes, the deer bow back.

  • The Yasaka Pagoda rising over the tiled roofs of Higashiyama in Kyoto

    Days 7 to 9

    Kyoto

    Peak momiji. Kiyomizu-dera at six in the morning, Sagano, and a night of demons.

    Days 7 to 9

    Kyoto

    Peak momiji. Kiyomizu-dera at six in the morning, Sagano, and a night of demons.

  • Himeji Castle, white against a pale sky, behind willows and a stone wall

    Day 10

    Himeji

    The real castle, not a concrete rebuild, on the way west to Okayama.

    Day 10

    Himeji

    The real castle, not a concrete rebuild, on the way west to Okayama.

  • Yayoi Kusama's yellow pumpkin on the pier at Naoshima, sea behind it

    Days 11 and 12

    Okayama

    Kurashiki's canal quarter, then Naoshima, the art island.

    Days 11 and 12

    Okayama

    Kurashiki's canal quarter, then Naoshima, the art island.

  • The floating torii gate at Miyajima standing in the shallows at low tide

    Days 13 and 14

    Hiroshima

    A garden at dawn, an afternoon that stays with you, and Miyajima.

    Days 13 and 14

    Hiroshima

    A garden at dawn, an afternoon that stays with you, and Miyajima.

  • Wooded mountains above the Hakone valley in autumn

    Days 15 and 16

    Hakone

    The day you stop moving. Hot springs, the loop, and out towards Fuji.

    Days 15 and 16

    Hakone

    The day you stop moving. Hot springs, the loop, and out towards Fuji.

  • Mount Fuji under a lenticular cloud, seen across a lake

    Days 17 and 18

    Fuji

    The viewpoints on the first day, the lake by bicycle on the second.

    Days 17 and 18

    Fuji

    The viewpoints on the first day, the lake by bicycle on the second.

  • The towers and neon of Shinjuku at dusk

    Days 19 to 21

    Tokyo again

    Shinjuku, Harajuku and Shibuya at dusk. The last day has no plan, on purpose.

    Days 19 to 21

    Tokyo again

    Shinjuku, Harajuku and Shibuya at dusk. The last day has no plan, on purpose.

That is the whole trip, start to finish.

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